This past summer, I had the chance to do something that not every teenager, or person for that matter, has the opportunity to do. I spent six weeks in Cairo, Egypt as part of an Egyptian family and as a student at an Arabic Language and Cultural Center. Two weeks after having returned to the United States, it is strange because I almost feel like my journey to Egypt never even took place. I am again sitting at the same computer as 8 weeks before, chatting with the same friends from high school, and I have even moved out of my home and am making a new transition into college. On the surface, my life is the same. But looking deeper into the thoughts and actions that I carry out on a daily basis, one can see how much six short weeks in the Middle East has drastically changed my outlook on life and my purpose in it.
Before Egypt, I considered myself a very open-minded, knowledgeable person. I started an International Awareness Club at my high school, and I hosted several exchange students. And as I can imagine my Egyptian host mother telling me, smiling “meshi, ok.” Which, in this situation implies “Okay. Thank you for sharing, Maria.” I did have an open mind and I did know a thing or two about the worlds different cultures and peoples. But by the end of my six week adventure, I realized how much how much my mind could still be opened and how much more I could actually learn. What I learned came did not come just from five weeks of Arabic class or just from time spent with my Egyptian family. Instead it was these experiences, combined with many others. It was the school and family combined with ith the two hours I spent on 6 different microbuses every day, or asking directions from a woman on the street, or us Americans asking our Arabic teacher Mohammed about an uncomfortable or confusing cultural situation we had gotten ourselves into. The knowledge that I gained came from the week I spent in the Egyptian countryside, sleeping under the stars on the balcony and living without running water. It came from from how I felt as a veiled woman at a conservative family wedding, how part of me wished I could have worn a sexy new dress, and then how the other part never thought of what I was wearing but instead on the interactions that I had. What I felt, what I ate, what I saw, what I heard, what I dreamed and even what I smelled contributed to all that I discovered during my stay in Egypt.
So, what did I learn? How exactly did it impact me? Like my peers who accompanied me on this trip, I feel that a summarization of what knowledge I gained is impossible. More appropriately, the feelings and emotions that I now possess can expose what I have learned about Egyptian and Arab culture. I must first say that my feelings are strong. Upon returning home, I was surprised to feel an even greater longing for Egypt than I did for my home while abroad. I was both extremely happy for what I had accomplished and having met the people I had met, but also exceptionally sad to have to leave it all behind when I was just becoming comfortable and beginning to understand. I feel strongly about many of the experiences that I had while in Egypt.
Primarily, I feel strongly connected to my Egyptian family. Whereas anyone could read a book about Egyptian family life, when in Egypt, the trials and tribulations that I went though in the process of connecting with each member of my family helped me gain an understanding of exactly what it meant to be a family in Cairo, Egypt. What role did I have as a daughter, an older sister, a teenager, a woman? At first I had no idea, but the more time that I spent with my family and walking around the streets of Cairo, I believe I began to understand. When my host sister told me the she could only hope that the family’s next exchange students would be as respectful of the home’s rules and traditions as I was, I felt that I had accomplished one of the greatest feats in my life. Or when my host father called me “ya habibiti” or “ya binti” (my love or my girl) rather than just “Maria,” I felt as if I had picked up on even the smallest cultural fragments that brought together a family.
Furthermore, I feel strongly attached to the Middle East and recognize it as a significant region of the world. Before I went to Egypt, I was aware of the problems that seemed to be growing there. However, I did not concern myself with them. I felt that it was some Muslim extremist’s fault for creating wars and that there was really nothing more to it. Like many other Americans, I didn’t want to make “their problem” my problem. Here, however, is where my views have changed most dramatically. Whereas I previously laughed with my Waukesha friends who told me that they only hoped that I would come back alive from Egypt and that I would not meet any terrorists, I now become appalled and angered by these kinds of jokes. It frustrates and saddens me that the majority of the American population, as I once did, sees the Middle East as a place only for violence, war, extreme religion and terrorism. It is true that these types of corruption exist there. However, I had an experience most opposite from this stereotype. Though Egyptians dislike American governmental policy, I, as an American citizen, was welcomed with open arms into the homes and hearts of more families and new friends than I can name. Bombs? I didn’t see any. So-called "terrorists" ? I didn’t meet any.
Yes. The people of Egypt are mostly Muslim, and yes, the women cover with long sleeves and veils. Yes. Many stereotypes that people have of Egypt and the Middle East are true in many situations. But in no way do these ideas prevent the Egyptian people from learning, growing and sharing just like Americans desire to do. My conservative Muslim family who never missed any of the five-a-day prayers and who were the first ones at the mosque every Friday, taught me only about kindness, sharing and community. My mother, who veiled from head to toe, always stayed up until I returned home safe at night. My sister, who will not date until she has accepted a marriage offer, and I bantered about the order and atomic weight of the elements on the periodic table and also which shirt looked better with which pants. In these situations, it wasn't until I felt the sweat dripping down my brow and looked out the window to see the desert as my backyard that I was in a foreign land half-way across the world.
It is true that Egyptian culture is so incredibly different from that of the United States. I am not lying when I say that many times I was uncomfortable or felt awkward because of a cultural difference or misunderstanding. I will admit that I was at times scared of finding my way around Cairo during my daily transit from school to home. However, I cannot begin to explain the unbelievable feeling that one attains when he or she finally can get from school to home without a problem, jump into a conversation with your average, everyday Egyptian, or walk down the street without feeling like a stranger. For the past summer, being "just like Asmaa, like Afnaan, like Ayatt, like Abd-alRahman" as my host mom would say in reference to my 4 sisters and brother, this is what I feel I have accomplished. By the last week in Cairo, I felt part of the family, part of the culture, and most notably, a part of Cairene society.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Blast from the Past--Email Updates from Cairo 2006
I found these emails from when I was in Egypt. They are updates that I sent to my family and friends. Quite a time of discovery and exploration for me! In the pic above you see me and my two guys who I met during my trip to the Sinai peninsula. These "guys" turned out to be great friends-- one of whom I have visited in Cairo last summer, the other of whom has visited me twice in Madison. :)
Update #1
i finally have access to the internet! my family's computer broke and they are working on getting a new one. thier fridge also broke so they had to get a new one of those first. so right now im at in internet cafe during the breaktime that we have for school
can i please just say that everything is soOOOOOOOO different.
ok they do not use toilet paper!!!!!!!!!!!! they have a litttle sprayer next to the toilet that you just spray off with. not a bidet but like a shower hose. its rather refreshing but kind of sticky because you dont use a towel or anything afterwards. im still figuring it out.
my host family-VERy nice people. the veil is very misleading honestly when "mama" gets home, she rips it off. same with the girls. ALL my clothes are WAYY too inappropriate for here. or at least for my family they are very conservative. even shirts that cover everything up but show skin when i bend over are not good.
before going out last night (and when i say going out i mean going to buy bread- i have a feeling that i wont be really "going out" a lot. ) "baba" (the dad) made me iron my shirt and pants even though they were cargo/baggy ish pants that are always a little wrinkly. shoot man this is tough.
ok and the men. yikes they act like they have never seen a woman before. whistling, yelling, beeping, winking, etc... to me its funny but i cant laugh because it will be signal to them or something. even my sister asmaa said that she was scared when we went out last night.
OMG transportation. take the nearest person, hug them, breath on them, smell thier armpits, look them in the eyes from less then a foot away and then you will know what the metro is like.
ok i have to get back to class right now.
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update #2
Asalamu alakum!!
(your response: wi' alakum asalam!)
Hey friends and family! Sorry that it took so long, but I'm finally able to say hello from Cairo, Egypt! I have officially been here for a week now, and its been CRAZY!! I will try to summarize my experience THUS FAR, even though I could write a novel on it.
Last Wednesday and Wednesday, we attended arabic classes for 4 hours each day. This is what we will be doing for the next four weeks. We started learning phrases like " live...", and "my name is.." and responses to greetings and questions. We also learned the alphabet and are starting to spell words with it! Wow though!!! its sooo different. for example, there are no "p" or "v" sounds and there are 28 letters.
Even though learning arabic is cool, school is not even 10% what i learn here. EVERYTHING during EVERY minute of the day is different from anything in waukesha, Wi or anywhere in the US. im just going to do some bullet points because its really hard for me to acually tell a story about things that happen here.
cairo is SOO croweded. every morning it takes me 1 hour to get to school with 3 different Microbuses. they are actually big vans that in which about 10-15 people are stuffed. the driver blasts islamic prayer/arabic music (depending on thier age). you tap the person in front of you on the shoulder and pass up your fare (which is about 9 cents (50 piasters or 1/2 egyptian pound).
for the last 4 days i was on the sinai peninsula.
it was BEAUTIFUL! i did not sleep more than 3 hours each night. THESE PEOPLE DO NOT SLEEP!! i watched the sunrise everymorniong. one night we went out to namaa bay beach near sharm el sheik, another night we went 4 wheeling in the desert, and the other night everyone stayed up and hung out/swam at the amazing hotel. i also went snorkling, swimming, on a glass bottom boat tour and tubing in the red sea. the water is so blue and there are so many fish!!!
i also went horse back riding in the desert for about 45 minutes. it cost me a whopping 20 pounds (4-ish dollars)
last night (saturday), we climed mount sinai!! it was really hard, espeically because we started at 2 am after not sleeping at all, and when it was still dark out. but when we reached the top, seeing the starts and then watching the sunrise was AMAZING. i cant wait to share pictures.
the whole AFS group that is here gets along so well!! despire any discomfort im feeling because of cultural differences, im having a great time!! everything is SOOO new and i never cease to be amazed or shocked.
ok something else!! if you have ever heard of egyptian genorosity, it is TRUE. for example, my family is SO very generous that they feed me every hour at least. even though they dont speak english, they find a way to offer me food. and by offering or feeing me, i acually mean feeding me. at dinner, they place food on my plate just as i ifnish my last bite, or for lunch they pack me 3-5 sandwiches!! or they catch me off guard and hand me some food item. i have no where else to put it but my mouth. its like refusing it not an option. its rough man. i acually have the desire to be hungry for once!!
ok i have to get back to school now!! (we have a one hour break each day) i apoligize for the choppiness of the letter, there are so manyt things going on that i dont know where to start or finish! Insha'ala (god willing- a word used in every sentence here) i will be able to write again sooN!
tomorrow i am off the ministry of foriegn affairs with the AFS group.
shoofek maratanya (see you later in colloquial arabic)
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Update #3
hello again friends and fam!!
just a quick update before i head back to school!
it was fun hearing from all of you who send me a response emaiL!
for the last few days it has been really HOT. i checked one day and it was 97 F. yikes. what makes it even hotter is the clothes that im wearing. i ususally wear capris, pants, or a long skirt and a long sleeve shirt. my host family is very conservative and doesnt allow me to wear anything less. even the "conservative" clothes that i brought from the United States is not enough. it is generally too tight, or the t-shirts may show my back when i bend over. covering up so much is definitely something I am still getting used to!!!
Someone asked if i had to wear a veil, and the answer is no. Although many people here tell me that I do look egyptian, it is best for non-muslim foreigners not to wear a headscarf. it the Egyptians become more curious and stare even more than they already do.
In school, we have learned the Arabic alphabet and are beginning to read words!! Its kind of like being in kindergarten again and having the feeling of being able to read for the first time--again!!
learning vocabulary is fun because i learn it at 12 during the day, and go home at 3:00 and am able to use it right away.
When i get home to the US , i will help eveyone write thier names in arabic .
Of course with the awesome things that I am experiencing, there are the not-so-awesome things that I am seeing too. i.e. POLLUTION. its terrible. im coughing all the time and sometimes the smoke fills my stomach and gives me a really uncomforable stomach ache.
This week i have another BUSY schedule!! We will be visiting the Khan Al-Khalili bazaar, going to a sufi dancing concert and then going to a 4 day trip to the al-farafa oasis to do community service, and of course CHILL.
i have to get back to class!! i will keep going with these updates to let everyone know about cairo life! despite all the differences and misunderstandings between american and egyptian culture and llife, i really do like it here. however, the nicities that we have in the US that arent avaible here make me REALLY appreicate having wisconsin as my place to call home. thats a whole nother can of worms that i talk about in the next email: waukesha vs. cairo
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Update #4
Hey people--
It's hardly been a week, but I found some time today so I thought I would share with you an interesting experience that I had last night.
Ok so maybe you're thinking ohh maybe she scaled a pyramid or sailed the nile, buttttt thats actually not it. last night it was my job to wash the dishes. however, for whatever reason, we had no running water. of course usually we do, but sometimes it stops. last night was one of those times. DInner was definitely different than I am used to. But it worked.
To cook dinner, my host mom used some reserves that she keeps in 1.5 liter bottles in the cabinet. Then instead of everyone having his or her own plate, we like 3 or 4 used plates in the middle for the main dishes and just used pita-like bread to scoop a portion out of these community bowls and bring it to our mouths. As for cups, we used one and passed it around ( i know, GROSS, but think about it this way: while I am accepting to drink from a glass that that touched everyone's mouth, they are also accepting to drink from the cup that touched my mouth).
Washing the dishes was interesting. My sister Asmaa helped me. We had about 2 liters of water for all the pots, cups, and plates (we didnt use silverware). I can say that we used the water until it was REALLY gross, and then dumped it out. I was really doubting the fact that we could actually wash dishes with such a limited amount of water. BUT it worked.
OK well sorry if this was boring for you, but I just thought i might share part of life that no one ususally thinks about. Of course when I signed up to come to Egypt, I wasnt thinking about cleaning and washing dishes with my hands and grubby water (and still getting them clean). But the family that I live with here REALLY values family life and togetherness. Everyone has her or his job to help the household run smoothly.
This week at the al-Farafara Oasis we are doing a community service project to restore roman ruins! That will be cool.
Something fun about egypt: the prices!! I have been spending money like mad here, but it really doesnt amount to anything in dollars. When I buy water at the corner store every day, I throw in all these wierd cookies and candy bars just because they look fun to try. My total for all these things comes to like $3.00. A 1.5 L bottle of water is 2 Egyptian Pounds or $0.34. a candy bar (even like kitkat or snickers) is about 1.5-3 (max.) Egyptian pounds. you do the math. its pretty NICE
hope to update all of you soon
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Update #5
Hey people
Again--Greetings from Egypt. Right now I am in a part called Mohandiseen. That is where my school is located, as well as the internet cafe where I am right now.
From Thursday to Sunday of last week, our group took a trip to the al-Farafra Oasis. The reason that we went was to do community service projects. The first day we went to a home in the desert where some Bedoiun people made wood carvings, weaved things out of palm leaves, and sewed clothes out of camel wool. We helped them make lunch, do some of the handicrafts and then played with the little kids! For a while, all the women went into one room and danced to Arabic music. I had to take a moment to really realize that I was dancing to Amr Diab with Bedioun children in the Sahara desert. It was pretty fun I'll have to admit. There was also a sandstorm that blew through when we were there!! It was like a mini-tornado that lasted only for a few seconds. It was funny because all the americans jumped into fetal position while the Egyptians just covered thier faces and waited for it to pass.
We also covered a building with cement paste. The cement was actually just sand and water. Its a perfect covering for all buildings here because it dries quickly and is very stong. However, there would be a problem if it ever rained!! The process was really hot and really smelly, but we all got through it alive. All of the volunteers ended up covered in mud by the end. Some guys even started mud wrestling!! It was actually a good time.
One complaint: Terrible food. We ate sliced warm cucumbers, tomatoes and goat cheese, and grainy pita pockets for a total of 5 out of 7 meals. I guess i cant complain- we WERE in the middle of the desert.
We took a trip to the white desert for the last night to watch the sunset. on the way there there was a random pair of camels roaming the desert!! Again--pretty surreal.
The rock formations in the desert were gorgeous.
It was a really wierd feeling, but I actually wanted to get back to cairo where it was 95 degrees instead of 110 and where I could get a cold glass of water.
We only have one week of school left! this trip is going so fast! Attempting to learn arabic makes me want to learn all the romance langauges at lightining speed. In arabic class, it takes me a few minutes just to recognize the letters and sound out the word. And then, I dont even know what it means! AT least in Spanish and German and stuff I can read the langauge right off the bat! Insha'ala my arabic skills will be okay when i get back :):)
i have to get home
thanks for reading
maria
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Update #6
Asalamu Alakum!!
Greetings once again! My AFS friend Margaret and I have made friends with the guy who runs the internet cafe where I write from because we are here so often!!
Continuing with the saga...
I went to the pyramids yesterday!! In all the travel movies, they make it look like you have to take an excursion to some remote location in the middle of the desert (by the way, in arabic the word "sahara" means desert) in order to reach the site of the pyramids. But actually, they are located on the outskirts of Cairo (in Giza). We just got off the highway, drove about 5 minutes and we were there! Looking out the bus window, they seemed so small, but then I looked at the base and saw a person standing near one. He was only as tall as the first block!
Pictures do not do the pyramids justice. You cant fit all three in one picture with the spinx. The coolest view is from in front of the sphinx with all three in the background. It was hard to get a picture because of all the tourists. From this view, if you turn 180 degrees and walk about 100 meters, you will be at Pizza Hut (or KFC--you choose--as they are right next to each other).
I also went to the Egyptain museum. WOW there are so many amazing artifacts there. BUT, nothing is done to preserve or really exhibit them. Everything is just placed on the floor or wall or in a glass case. SOme of the explaniations of the artifacts are written on post it-like papers, tape or a note card and placed in the case. OTHERS are typewritten. thats what i call quality.
CULTURAL POINT: Now I think I understnad why egyptians stare at me EVERY second that I am in public. Ok... There are many tourists at the pyramids. As tourists, they do not try to fit in with Egyptian culture, and show up wearing shorts, mini skirts, tank-tops, muscle shirts for guys, etc. When I saw that, my jaw just dropped. I dont know why, but it was so WIERD to me to see all that skin. Here I am, an American teenager who is used to wearing mini skirts and bikinis, staring at these people who are wearing "normal" American clothing. These Cairo men (and even women) stare at us foriengers because our skirts reach only past our knees, we wear short sleeve t-shirts, and our long hair blows in the wind.
I think I am starting to get used to the whole clothing change now. I havent worn a tight shirt since the US. I have not put on a pair of shorts or tight jeans since the US. I havent worn make up the whole time that I've been here (its seriously MELTS off your face)
It is not that people dont wear tight clothes and tight shirts, but you have to know that if you do, you will be started at and called to. I was told by at 17 yr old guy who volunteers for AFS that he thinks women really should cover thier hair and wear long pants and long sleeve shirts. Not because he thinks men should have more rights or because women should be submissive. His honest reason: its safer. When I first heard that I was like yeah right thats BS. But I will tell you that the day that I wore a headscarf, long sleeve shirt and a long skirt to go a conservative family member's wedding, I did not hear and whistling, calls, kissy noises, etc. from even one person on the street. Things are very different here.
OK I'm heading to the CIty Stars Mall now in Nasr City ( a kind of subburb of Cairo). I will attempt to take a taxi there...
Shukran giddan (thanks a lot)
M'salama (goodbye)
Maria
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Thursday, April 22, 2010
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
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