¡Joder, tío!

LONDON

‘ello love! I’m back in Alcala from London. What (another) great trip! London is a really beautiful, historic city with a LOT to see. There are all buildings (Parliament, Big Ben, Buckingham Palace, etc) but then all the museums are free too! For being there just three days, I think I was able to fit a good amount of sightseeing in. It was another one of those trips where every few minutes I had to pinch myself to see if this was real life or not.

London was of course expensive (my most expensive trip yet), but it was totally worth it. It was crazy to see all the fancy cars and luxurious houses and to know (from reading Hello! magazine) that Prince Harry parties in the same neighborhood where we went out on Friday night (Notting Hill). Since I had been so busy planning other trips and trying to write my essays for class, I had no time to plan for London. So when I got there, I had no idea of what to see other than the well known sights. I found that buying a map and hopping on a bus which we THINK will take us in the general direction of where we want to go is the best way to explore the city. I also realized how much better it is to take the bus than the underground metro. Busses are like free tours around the city!

But anyhoo, besides the sightseeing and great shopping, there are a lot of things that I have been thinking about after touring around London. That brings us to the agenda for today:
1. London
2. Austira
3. Barcelona
4. Culture
5. Bus Drivers
6. Podcasts and Cultural Comfort


London is a lot more of an ethnically diverse place than is Madrid. Whereas in Madrid you see a lot of one ethnic group or another, in London its an total mix. Additionally, it doesn’t seem like all the “Western” ethnicities are necessarily the most wealthy. Whereas in Spain I can tell that the South American is a worker and the Spanish is a businessperson, I had no perception of this in London. (I do understand I am making some pretty big assumptions granted I was only there for 3 full days, but I’m just sharing my observations. Let me know if you know differently!)

I also realized how much I like seeing this diversity and how much Madrid is missing it. May God forgive me for staring at people so much, but the people-watching is GREAT in London. The fashion is very diverse but also “advanced” (in relation to the US) and since there is such a mix of people, there are so many unique and beautiful faces.

It also seems that these diverse groups are more integrated into society. I was thinking as to why this might be. Here’s my theory: In Spain, Franco’s dictatorship lasted until 1977 meaning that it basically was closed off the to world, and when people did move around, they were moving OUT of (not into) Spain. Thus, Spain was a pretty homogenous country even up until the year 2000. So here, there’s no second generation yet. Everyone is relatively fresh off the boat so there’s no mixing going on. Its pretty sad actually. Groups are so separated. Like the other day I got excited because I saw a black girl and Asian looking guy walking arm-in-arm and I was like, hey! There is cultural harmony here. But then I got closer and realized that they were Americans. Wah-wahhhhh.
I talked about this with my program director and she said that she realized that this “segregation” was apparent in Spain but “ojala” (hopefully) it will change in ten years.

----→ one quick side note. There is a word in Spanish called “Ojala” which means hopefully. When learning about it in class, the professor told us that it came from the Arabic phrase “Oh Allah” which is a call of desperation to God. Well, that’s really funny because I thought it came from the phrase “Insha’allah” which means “if god wills” or broken down insha=wills and allah=god. But whatever, I must not know what I’m talking about.

Another thing about London that I noticed in comparison to Madrid is that it is much more cosmopolitan. Sure Madrid has a lot of international brands, people and a stores, but it is a lot more apparent in London. For example, at the grocery store in London the bread section includes bread loafs (wonder bread type), baguettes, naan and pita. In Madrid/Alcala de Henares, not so much. Also, in London, there are TONS of Arabic and Indian restaurants. In Spain, you may run into a Chinese restaurant or Arabic restaurant here or there but its very uncommon. I would attribute this to the whole Franco issue as well. Way to close off your country Franco and condemn it to a future of close-mindedness and racism!

AUSTRIA
A few weeks ago, as I previously mentioned, I went to Austria. What a beautiful place. Man oh man. But anyway, let me tell you a little story and then wrap it up with a realization about the difference between the concept of the human body in the US and in Austria.

So my friend Georgia and I went to Austria together. Giesela was busy for a few hours, so we headed to the Alpentherme (thermal bathhouse/pool). We chilled in the family pool, went to the outdoor pool, etc. Then we decided to go to the spa room with all the steam rooms and saunas. When we walked in, everyone was naked, naturally. That didn’t surprise me. When I was in Austria two years ago I was at another spa where everyone was naked. However, Georgia and I decided not to go nude. There were some other people in the sauna area with swimsuits on, so we didn’t think we were in the wrong. But, then some old European man yelled at us and motioned with his hands. We thought he meant that it was required that we use towels in that specific steam room.
So we left, got towels and came back in.
Then the man who yelled at us previously left.
Turns out that old man went and got one of the people who worked at the spa to come and yell at us in another Germanic language. This time we were pretty sure that he meant “ You have to take your swimming suit off.”
Georgia and I weren’t really into that bring-naked-in-a-room-full-of-other-naked-people thing so we got up and left.
When we left, we did see the sign at the door that said “nude zone” in about 10 different languages and a sign of a bikini with a red “X” through it. Don’t know how we missed that.

While this is a rather funny anecdote, it does bring me to an interesting cultural point: the hypersexualization of the human body in American society. I don’t know if that’s actually a word, but you can probably guess what I mean. If not, let me tell you:

Think of where, in the United States, you see the naked human adult body. Pornos. Maybe a health class. … … … and I’m spent; I cant really think of anywhere else. And maybe this is just a generalization, but in Europe it seems that the body is something very natural. Which I think it should be. Especially after being in a room full of naked people though, you really think twice about all the hype around nakedness. It’s so overrated!

It’s also really interesting to think about two dichotomies that I have experienced while traveling.: the difference between Austria and Egypt. In Egypt, my host family always wanted to make sure that my clothes weren’t too tight, that my back or belly didn’t show when I bent over and they didn’t want me hanging out with guys they didn’t know. Then in Austria, I entered a room full of naked men and women of all ages, not to mention all strangers and furthermore, it was required to be totally naked.

That’s the moment when you have to take a step back and think about the human race. Yes, we’re all human, we all have the same basic needs and wants (food, shelter, clothing, relaxation, community, fun, etc.) but the way that we go about obtaining these wants and needs them are so very different. I also think that this concept would make for a good definition of culture: the way in which a society seeks to maintain the basic human wants and needs.


BARCELONA AND THOUGHTS ON NORTH AFRICA

Now on to Barcelona and some random thoughts about my experience there.

Barcelona is a beautiful city on the Mediterranean with a lot to see and do. Plenty of plazas, restaurants, bars, clubs, a beach, parks…and the list goes on. If you’re ever in Barcelona, here are some of the places that you have to see/pass by:
1. Park Güell
2. Las Ramblas
3. Barrio Gotico
4. Sagrada Familia
5. Plaza Catalunya
6. Plaza Espanyola- fountain/light show every Friday and Saturday night
7. Catedral in the Barrio Gotico
8. The Beach/Port of Barcelona
9. Gaudí Houses

While all these places were great, my favorite experience in Barcelona was not a sight that I saw or a park that I visited. Instead it was the people that I met. Both Friday and Saturday night that we were there we went to the beach to do a “botellón.” (For all of you who don’t know what that is, let me explain. One of the greatest Spanish phenomenon, a botellón is just where you buy alcohol in a corner store—popularly called “Chinos” or “Pakis” because they are run by Asians or Pakistanis---take it to the outdoor location of your choice---beach, particular street, plaza---- and you guessed it, drink. Its technically illegal, but the police are usually very lax about it and don’t arrest or fine people.)
During our botellón on the beach, first of all we met a street performer in his twenties from Transylvania. He had a guitar and harmonica so he sang us some songs and then we started to chime in too. Sitting on the beach under a full moon, drinking Spanish wine and listening to a free show by a Transylvanian man….Life doesn’t get any better than this.
After a while when the whole scat singing and guitar playing died down, I heard a drum beating in the distance. The music was Arab sounding. I turn around and there was a band of young guys walking down the beach playing Moroccan beats and singing.
At hearing this music, I of course jumped up and ran over to them, said hello and told them that I loved their music. They invited me to sit with them on the beach. We sat and chatted for a while, I whipped out the little Arabic that I know, and of course then I joined them in dancing. When I told the guys that I was from the US, the face this one guy gave me made me think that he didn’t really believe me.
This is the kind of stuff I LOVE; I spent about an hour on the beach in Barcelona, chillin with some Moroccan teenagers who were playing a drum and chanting/singing music in Arabic. Everyone says that Barcelona’s night clubs are crazy fun, but am I definitely glad I spend the night on the beach. Not only did I met people from around the world, but I also got to experience the best of Moroccan culture and hopefully show these guys that not all Americans are do-dos.
This experience makes me reflect on the things I’ve heard about Arab and Moroccan culture here in Spain. North Africa is so close, but there is such misunderstanding by the Spanish about this part of the world. I have heard so many times that I shouldn’t go to Morocco because its so dangerous, there is a strong hate towards Americans and that the men there are ravenous. I must be naïve, biased or just not seeing the whole picture because all the Moroccans I have met have been nothing but nice. Sure, some of the guys have been a creepy, but lets be honest, creepy dudes exist in ALL cultures.
I guess what I’m trying to say is that I have really felt there is a lot of ignorance and stereotypes by the Spanish towards the Moroccan population in Morocco and in Spain, and it really bothers me. Let me share two other related stories:
STORY ONE
In the classes that I’m, taking we learn a lot about Spanish history. All the stories about the incest and scandals within the royal families and who killed who to get which piece of land doesn’t really interest me. However, when we came to the year 711, I though I would finally be interested in something. This year was the year that the Moorish kingdom began in Spain. Much to my surprise though, we spend ONE CLASS PERIOD (90 minutes) talking about more than 700 years of history: 711 until 1492 when the Reconquista of Spain was consolidated. No gossip about which Muslim king married who and how many lovers he had on the side? No talk about which royal family was the worst in all 700 years? Nope. Instead we covered the “Invasion” of the Muslims in one class period; the “invasion” that came right after the invasion of the Visigoths. But, oh wait, when the Visigoths ruled Spain for 500 years, that was called a Kingdom. Nevermind.

STORY TWO
This last weekend my study abroad group was in Seville, a city in the south of Spain. We were at a palace/cathedral-type building that had a lot of art in the mudejar style (the style from Moorish Spain). At seeing these designs, the director of our study abroad program goes “Who wants to be Muslim?!” and when two girls volunteered, she took their scarves and wrapped them around the girls head like a hijab. She then took out her camera and started taking pictures. The girls in the pictures were very serious looking, so I told them, “You can be happy!” Then the director turned to me and said, “No they can’t; they’re subdued to men!” (“son sometidos al hombre”).

Excuse me? First she dresses up two girls as Muslims like it’s a Halloween costume, then asserts that they need to look sad in the picture because they are Muslim women, and therefore, suppressed by men and therefore, depressed. Okaaaaaay… and this woman is employed by an international study abroad business? There must not be too rigorous of an interview process…

I previously thought ignorance and stereotypes towards the Muslim world was just an American phenomenon due to 9/11 and the subsequent war in Iraq, but I have unfortunately learned that this attitude exists in other parts of the world, too. Here in Spain I imagine it at least partially comes from their “9/11” which was March 11, 2004: the terrorist bombing which killed hundreds in the Madrid train station Atocha and for which Al Qaeda claimed responsibility. Sad to think that one nut-job (Osama bin Ladin) and his whack ideas (that the south of Spain which used to be ruled by Muslims should be returned to the Muslim world) ruin the reputation of millions of people. Way to go Osama! (Thank the Lord that most people don’t pin the ideas of George Bush and actions of the US military onto every single American.)

CULTURE

Last night, as I was walking back to the hotel from “Blues Bar” in Seville my friend Federico and I stopped for a few minutes to watch un espectaculo going on in the street. Some guys with guitars were playing and singing some Spanish tunes. Then some ladies from the bar came out and started dancing Flamenco with the guys who didn’t have guitars. This was going on since before we got there and until after we left. This is a very lame description, but how cool.

On Friday when we were in Cordoba, we sat down at a outdoor café and just as we were ordering our pizza, some guys sitting at a table near us starting playing the guitar and singing.

In Barcelona, I was invited to dance and enjoy a “free concert” just by saying hello.

In my Resedencia, on of my roommate will sometimes whip out his guitar and play some tunes. Or on Sunday when we are all eating lunch together Luis plays music from his cell phone and I’m pulled away from my lunch, fork still in hand, to dance.


I have realized that in the US, we are many times so aloof, for lack of a better word. Distanced from one another, detached from our own sense of humanity. Sorry for being so cheesy, but its true! We are so personal and individualized. Everyone walks around their ears plugged with his or her ipod, coffee in hand, on the way to somewhere important. And what do we do for fun? We get drunk on the weekend, we go out, we think we have fun but are not quite sure because we don’t really remember, we meet hundreds of new people who we, if it weren’t for Facebook, would forget about, we wake up the next day, pop an ibuprofen and then return to being serious Monday morning. I will admit that that I have been in this exact situation many-a-time, and I will admit that I think they were fun.
But being here in Spain and being able to travel around and meet so many different people and have so may different experiences makes me realize that there are so many “kinds” of fun to be had, and furthermore, it is so much more fun when you have someone to share the fun with.
There are so many things to appreciate in the world but I think that because of our fast-paced lifestyle, we don’t take the time to appreciate them. A nice view, an intrestestingly shaped tree, a coffee, the clouds, a bottle of wine, a car ride, a good song, a sunny afternoon, silence. To me it seems that we as Americans are so focused on heading to our next appointment that we don’t enjoy those things. In fact, sitting to drink your morning coffee or taking a lunch break is considered a waste of time. Or, if you went to go sit on a bench downtown on a sunny afternoon, people would probably think that you were homeless.
I’m not saying that we don’t have a “culture” in the US, I’m just saying that we don’t have one fixed culture that is accepted by everyone. What is “America” for me is “Maria’s a weirdo” for someone else. A few weeks ago, my roommates asked me,
“What is the typical dish of Wisconsin?” and I didn’t exactly know how to answer them. I thought about what I eat at home in Waukesha and then realized that shrimp creole and fresh mozzarella and tomato salads probably aren’t the most typical Wisconsin foods. So I answered them with “Brats, burgers and beer,” but then added that “Mexican food is pretty popular too.”
Each time that someone has asked me a question about the typical this or that in my country or state, I always have a different answer. Because the truth is there is no typical in the US. There are some traits that characterize Americans in general, like wearing sweatpants in public and smiling in pictures and there are plenty of traits that describe WASP America (which some people would equate with America as a whole). But overall, considering all the people in the US, its really hard to say exactly “This is what we do/eat/wear/watch/say in the United States.” And I really like that.


BUS DRIVERS
Now onto a lighter topic: Bus Drivers in Spain. Bus drivers are some of the happiest people I see around. For example:
1. When they are ahead of schedule, they’ll stop at a main bus station, get out, have a smoke and chat with all their other bus driver friends.
2. When they pass by another bus on the city streets, they’ll roll down the driver winder and slow down so they can shout something to the driver passing by.
3. They play the radio or whatever music they want so that the whole bus can hear it.
4. If they see a friend walking down the road, they’ll stop the bus, and let the friend on and keep on keepin’ on while the friend stands by the drivers side chatting. Then when they’re done chatting, they’ll stop to let the friend off.
5. When I get on the bus every morning, I am greeted by the bus driver with a “Good Morning” or “Hello” and frequently with “How are you today?” If I get one specific driver (who has a mullet and loves classic American rock music) he greets me with “Hola guapa! Guapísima! Que tal estás?” (Hello beautiful! Very beautiful! How are you?)
6. When taking long bus rides, its mandated by Spanish law that the driver has to stop every 2 or 3 hours. On our trip to Sevilla we stopped and waited 30 minutes while our driver ordered a sandwich and (non-alcoholic) beer.

And with all this friendliness and stopping, people still get to where they want to be. And you know what, I bet they’re happier when they get there.

INTELLIGENCE OF STREET VENDORS

When you do a lot of traveling, you get accosted by many a street vendor. They’re annoying. They try to sell you the most worthless crap ever. Sometimes they smell like B.O. But all that aside, a lot of them, especially in the bigger cities (Barcelona is where I experienced this the most), speak numerous languages. Some people (like yours truly) study years and years to be able to speak other languages while these uneducated and impoverished guys pick up three or four languages selling beers and trinkets on the street.
This reminds me of a man who I heard speak at a Distinguished Lecture Series in Madison. His name was Ishmael Beah and he was a child soldier in Sierra Leone. He was lucky enough to be nursed back to health and sanity by a organization who helps child soldiers re-enter society. He was able to leave Sierra Leone and later write a beautifully written book about his experiences. Think about it: a young boy is brainwashed into killing his own country men and women, but later, because of the good will of others who never gave up on helping him, he was able to overcome his situation create a safe and comfortable life for himself and help others with his words and actions. Of course it takes the concerted effort of both parties, but its not impossible.
Now back to the street sellers. Just think if someone were to invest in one of these young men street vendors like the NGO did for Ishmael Beah. Or only if they had the opportunity to invest in themselves. Most people don’t choose to be poor. They are poor because they don’t have the opportunities they need to advance themselves. If these street vendors have already picked up 3 or 4 languages in the time they have spent bothering tourists, think how they would succeed in other topics or what they could do if they went to business school.


PODCASTS and COMFORT

Just until last week, I was not able to connect to the internet as I can in the US, and until last week I didn’t realize how much of an integral part of my life the internet is. Every day in the US, I listen to BBC World News when I get ready in the morning and I listen to various podcasts on the way to class. When I found out that I couldn’t get them here in Spain due to the pinche internet, I decided it was a good thing because then I could take in more of the Spanish culture rather than staying in my own little bubble. I would watch the Spanish news and listen to people’s conversations on the bus to try to improve my Spanish.
And I tried that. But when you don’t have a radio or TV its kinda hard. Or when the bus is packed and all the conversations just meld together. So this last week when I got access to world news and TED talks, I felt reconnected with the world.
I realized that there’s a certain point where I just need to let go of the whole “cultural immersion” idea and do what’s best for me. It’s like playing the Sims if you can imagine that. The people have little bars that you have try to keep at 100% by doing various tasks. When they talk with friends, the “social” bar is filled, when they sit down, the “comfort” bar goes up and when they go to bed the “sleep” bar increases. Everyday when I speak Spanish with my roommates, my “language” bar goes up, when I go to a barbeque with Spanish friends, my “cultural immersion” bar increases. Then when I listed to the BBC or listen to music in English, my “language” or “cultural immersion” bar may not be going up at all, but my “international connectedness” and “happiness” bars sure does.

Ahh…this is what happens when you devote hours of your life to a computer game.

If you, too, would like your happiness and international connectedness bar to be at 100%, google TED Talks. They will rock your socks off.

Well peeps thanks for tuning in once again.